The interior of Jugol — the walled old city — is best experienced on foot, wandering its network of narrow lanes without a fixed destination. The streets follow no grid; they evolved over centuries to connect houses, mosques, shrines, and markets, and they still feel lived-in and functional rather than preserved for tourism.
The lanes are narrow enough that two people walking abreast can almost touch the walls on both sides. Traditional Harari houses open onto them with carved wooden doors and whitewashed facades. Children play in the alleyways, women carry water and baskets, and goats wander where they please. The best time to walk is early morning or late afternoon. A local guide is useful for the first pass — not because you'll get lost, but because the stories attached to particular doors and corners are worth hearing.