The town is divided by the Ogooue into three parts — the southern bank, an island in the river, and the northern bank — joined by two long causeways. It is too spread out to walk comfortably end to end, particularly in the heat. Shared taxis circulate constantly and are cheap; agree the price before you get in.
For the lakes and any travel away from the town centre, the only sensible option is a motorised pirogue with a local boatman. Guesthouses can arrange this, and rates are negotiable depending on how much fuel the trip needs.