Kankan is the second-largest city in Guinea and the spiritual heart of the Malinke (Mandinka) people. For those tracing the history of the Mali Empire, this is significant ground. For everyone else, it is a dusty but atmospheric stop on the long road east from Conakry to Mali.
You would not guess from looking at it that Kankan was once a capital of empire. There is no grandeur here -- just a sprawling, low-slung town on the banks of the Milo River. But it has character. The Grande Mosquée is worth a visit, the covered market with its arched entrances is one of the liveliest in the country, and the open-air market is a good place to buy locally made leather goods and cloth.
Kankan sits 500 km east of Conakry, and bush taxis make the trip regularly. The road is slow but mostly paved. The town also serves as a transit point for travelers heading overland to Mali. Malinke culture is everywhere here -- in the music, the language, and the three rounds of sweet tea that accompany any conversation.