Lake Naivasha

A freshwater Rift Valley lake famous for hippos, fish eagles, and boat trips

Lake Naivasha is a large, shallow freshwater lake about 13 kilometres south of Naivasha town, fringed with dense papyrus beds and stands of yellow fever trees. It is home to substantial populations of hippos, which you will see on any boat trip — usually in groups of five to fifteen animals, submerged to their eyes in the shallower bays near the papyrus. Fish eagles are everywhere, calling from the fever trees with the most distinctive sound in East Africa.

Boat trips on the lake last about an hour and typically circle Crescent Island, a game sanctuary on a peninsula that feels like its own miniature wildlife reserve. You can walk on Crescent Island without a vehicle — giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, and waterbuck wander freely around you, which is a genuinely unusual experience. The birdwatching on the lake is excellent year-round, with pelicans, cormorants, herons, kingfishers, and enormous flocks of migrant waders.

Arrange boat trips at the various camps and lodges along the lake shore south of town, particularly along Moi South Lake Road. Early morning is the best time — the light is good and the hippos are more active.

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A story
Lake Naivasha sits in the floor of the Great Rift Valley at around 1,890 metres above sea level — making it one of the highest freshwater lakes in Africa. The lake has no surface outlet; its level fluctuates dramatically with rainfall, and in the mid-twentieth century it shrank so severely that the shoreline moved hundreds of metres. It has recovered substantially since, helped partly by the cessation of large-scale papyrus cutting, and the resident hippo and bird populations have rebounded with it.

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