The central market near the bus stage is one of the best markets in western Kenya and worth an hour of anyone's time. Soapstone carvings are the standout purchase — prices are a fraction of what you pay in Nairobi, and the quality is just as good. The stone comes from Tabaka in Kisii County, about two hours south, and the carvings range from small tourist pieces to serious works.
The market also sells fresh produce, dried fish from the lake, textiles, and the usual mix of household goods. It is large and dense and navigating it takes a little time to work out. Morning is the best time to visit when stock is freshest and crowds are manageable.