Al Khums

Libyan coastal town serving as the practical base for the spectacular Roman ruins of Leptis Magna.

Al Khums is a small coastal town about 130 km east of Tripoli, and for most visitors it exists for one reason: Leptis Magna, the spectacular Roman city just 3 km to the east. As the nearest town to arguably the best-preserved Roman ruins in the Mediterranean, Al Khums serves as the practical base for anyone visiting the site.

The town itself is modest — a working harbour, a grid of low-rise streets, and a handful of simple restaurants serving fresh fish and Libyan staples like couscous with lamb. There is not much to detain you beyond the ruins, but the harbour area has a certain quiet charm, and the seafront corniche makes for a pleasant walk in the evening.

Al Khums is reached by road from Tripoli, a drive of about 90 minutes along the coast. Shared taxis and minibuses make the trip regularly. If you are visiting Leptis Magna, plan to arrive early in the morning to have the ruins in good light and to beat the midday heat, which can be fierce in summer. The Arch of Septimius Severus at the site's main crossroads and the vast Severan Forum are the architectural highlights.

Guide

Getting There

Al Khums is 130 km east of Tripoli along the coastal highway. The drive takes about 90 minutes in light traffic. Shared taxis (servees) and minibuses run the route regularly from Tripoli's main bus and taxi stands and are the standard way to travel for Libyans. The fare is very cheap by any standard.

There is no train service. For visitors coming from Tripoli, the most practical option is to arrange a taxi for the day — the driver can wait at Leptis Magna while you explore, and this also makes it possible to stop at the ruins of Sabratha on the way back. Tripoli's formal taxi services can arrange this.

Note: visitors to Libya require a valid visa, and the security situation has been variable in recent years. Check current conditions with your government's travel advisory before planning a visit.

Guide

Things to Do

Al Khums exists, for most visitors, because of Leptis Magna. The Roman city 3 km to the east is one of the best-preserved ancient sites on the Mediterranean — larger and less visited than Pompeii, set against the sea. Beyond the ruins, the town has a working harbour, a corniche walk, and a small old quarter that preserves a sense of traditional Libyan coastal life. The beach east of the ruins, beyond the Wadi Lebda, is long and uncrowded.