Kaedi

Senegal River town in southern Mauritania, known for its earthen Hassan Fathy-designed regional hospital.

Kaedi is a river town on the northern bank of the Senegal River in southern Mauritania, serving as the main crossing point into Senegal in this part of the country. The population is an ethnic mix of Toucouleur, Halpulaar (Fulani), Beidane Arabs and Berbers, and Haratine. It is a quiet, easy-going place with a riverside character and more green vegetation than much of Mauritania.

One notable exception to the "no tourist sights" rule is the Kaédi Regional Hospital, designed by Egyptian architect Hassan Fathy in the 1980s — a landmark of vernacular architecture that uses earthen brick and natural ventilation to stay cool in the Saharan heat. It attracts a small but steady stream of architects and design enthusiasts. The Gorgol River, which joins the Senegal near town, supports hippos and waterbirds and is worth an early morning walk. The border crossing into Senegal is straightforward — pirogues can take you across without difficulty. Travellers heading overland between the two countries often pass through here.

Guide

Getting There

The road from Noakchott Kaedi via Boghe is usually in good condition. From Kaedi on can be difficult. Taxi-Brusse, 1970's era Peugot wagons, are cheap if you bargain and don't mind them being slow, crowded, breaking down frequently and the requisite goat or sheep.