The Jbel Saghro is the eroded volcanic massif rising south of Boumalne — a wild, almost lunar landscape of black basalt towers, dry valleys, and scattered Berber settlements. Less trekked than the High Atlas to the north, it is favoured by walkers who want to escape the crowded Toubkal trails and see a Morocco that has changed very little.
The classic trek is the four-to-six-day traverse from Tagdilt (south of Boumalne) to Nkob on the far side, crossing the Bab N'Ali rock formations on the way. Spring (March-April) and autumn (October) are the best windows; summer is brutally hot and winter brings snow and freezing nights.
Treks need a local guide, mules, and a cook — all of which can be arranged through Boumalne hotels or the Saghro Trekking association in town. The Aït Atta Berbers who live in the area still partly migrate with their flocks, and a chance encounter with a nomad family setting up a black tent is the unforgettable part of the trek.