There is one road through the valley. It runs along the Ourika River from the plains outside Marrakesh all the way to Setti Fatma, roughly 65km in total. Everything of interest is on or just off this road.
If you arrive by grand taxi or bus, you will likely be dropped in one of the villages and can walk between spots or flag down a passing vehicle. The road is well-trafficked during daylight hours. In the busy summer season, shared minibuses shuttle between Setti Fatma and lower villages.
Walking is the only way to reach the waterfalls above Setti Fatma. The path starts just beyond the last cluster of restaurants and involves crossing the river several times on stepping stones. Allow 30–45 minutes to reach the lowest waterfall; reaching the higher falls takes two to three hours and requires more agility.
If you have a rental car, driving yourself gives the most flexibility to stop at villages, markets, and roadside restaurants. Park away from the central area in Setti Fatma — the approach road is narrow and gets congested on busy days.