The road through the Ourika Valley is itself one of the best things about visiting. Starting from the flat plains south of Marrakesh, it climbs into the High Atlas along the course of the Ourika River, and the transformation happens quickly. Within 30 kilometres the road is threading between red clay cliffs, the river running fast below, terraced plots of vegetables and fruit trees clinging to every flat shelf above the waterline.
Berber villages punctuate the valley at intervals — some barely more than a cluster of mud-brick houses, others with guesthouses, cafes, and argan oil cooperatives. The road is paved and in reasonable condition for most of its length, though it deteriorates past the middle valley and the final stretch to Setti Fatma can be rough after spring rains.
Stop when something catches your eye. Roadside sellers set up throughout the day selling pottery, carved stone, and local honey.