The Ensanche, west of Place Hassan II, was laid out by Spain between 1913 and 1956 as the modern face of the protectorate's capital. The grid of broad avenues, plazas, and pastel art deco buildings would not look out of place in Cádiz. Plaza Moulay el Mehdi, with its central fountain and surrounding cafes, is the heart of the quarter and the obvious spot for a coffee.
Walk Avenida Mohammed V from the plaza toward the medina and you pass the old Iglesia de Bacturia (the Spanish Catholic church, still active), the former Spanish high commission, and several buildings whose tiled facades have been beautifully restored.