Nigerian food is rich, spiced, and deeply satisfying. It does not get nearly the international attention it deserves.
The undisputed national dish is jollof rice — long-grain rice cooked in a seasoned tomato and pepper base, usually served with fried plantain, coleslaw, and grilled or stewed meat or fish. Every region makes jollof differently, and Nigerians have strong opinions about whose version is best. Party jollof — cooked over firewood — is considered the gold standard.
Suya is the roadside staple of the north: thin-sliced beef or chicken marinated in a dry spice rub of ground peanuts, ginger, paprika, and chilli, then grilled over coals on skewers. You'll find suya stalls open late everywhere across the country. It's one of the finest street foods on the continent.
Egusi soup — made from ground melon seeds cooked with palm oil, leafy greens, and protein (beef, dried fish, or goat) — is one of the most common dishes in the south. It's thick and earthy, usually eaten with fufu, pounded yam, or eba (fermented cassava dough). Pepper soup is a spiced, clear broth often made with goat meat or catfish; it appears everywhere from roadside stalls to upmarket restaurants.
Regional variations are pronounced. In Yoruba areas of the southwest, look for efo riro (a rich leafy vegetable stew) and amala (yam flour dough). Igbo cooking in the southeast favours oha soup and nsala (white pepper soup). In the north, tuwo shinkafa (thick rice pudding eaten with soup) is common, along with kilishi — sun-dried, spiced beef that keeps without refrigeration and travels well as a snack.
Eating out ranges from outdoor mama put joints (canteen-style stalls where you point at what you want) to proper restaurants in Lagos and Abuja with menus, air conditioning, and prices to match. In Lagos particularly, the restaurant scene has exploded in recent years with a wave of modern Nigerian cooking that takes traditional flavours seriously.
Street food is safe and good if the stall is busy. Drink bottled water.