Highlights

Kano Old City

Kano is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in sub-Saharan Africa, and its old quarter — the birni — still contains mud-brick architecture, the ancient Emir's palace, and dye pits that have been in operation for centuries. Walk through the Kurmi Market, one of the largest in West Africa, and you'll find leather goods, brass, and the kind of commerce that has taken place on this same ground for a thousand years. The Durbar festival, held during the Eid celebrations, brings the city to a spectacular standstill.

Yankari National Park

Nigeria's best wildlife reserve sits in Bauchi State, in the northeast. Yankari is home to elephants, hippos, baboons, warthogs, and over 350 bird species. The park's main attraction for many visitors is Wikki Warm Spring — a crystal-clear natural pool fed by water at a constant 31°C, surrounded by forest. It feels incongruously pleasant. The reserve is genuinely wild and rewards early-morning game drives.

Oshogbo Sacred Grove

On the outskirts of Oshogbo, a UNESCO World Heritage Forest contains shrines, sculptures, and sanctuaries dedicated to Yoruba deities, many of them created or restored by the Austrian artist Suzanne Wenger in collaboration with local artists over several decades. The result is strange and powerful — baroque religious sculpture in a tropical forest setting. It is unlike anywhere else in Africa.

Benin City's Royal Treasures

Benin City was the centre of the Benin Empire, which produced some of the finest bronze and brass casting the world has ever seen. The bronzes were looted by a British punitive expedition in 1897 and now sit in the British Museum and other institutions abroad. But the royal palace still functions, the Oba still reigns, and the tradition of brass casting continues. A visit here involves history that is still raw and still contested.

Calabar Carnival

Every December, Calabar hosts what is billed as Africa's biggest street party: a month-long festival of music, dance, costumed parades, and general celebration. The city transforms, and the carnival draws well over a million visitors. If you can only pick one time to visit Nigeria, December in Calabar is a strong argument.

Lagos Energy

Lagos is not a relaxing destination, but it is an extraordinary one. The city's art scene — centred around areas like Victoria Island and Lekki — is among the most vibrant in Africa. The music scene is world-famous. The food is exceptional. The markets are overwhelming in the best possible way. Give it time and it rewards generously.