Ooni's Palace

The Ooni — the traditional ruler of Ife and the spiritual leader of the Yoruba people — lives and holds court in a palace compound in the centre of the city. The palace itself is not a museum and is only partially open to visitors, but the entrance gates and ceremonial forecourt are accessible, and the compound gives a real sense of the continuing vitality of the Yoruba monarchy.

The palace grounds contain several shrines and sacred spots associated with Yoruba creation mythology. The spot where, according to tradition, Oduduwa first descended from the heavens is marked within the compound. Visitors are usually welcomed by palace attendants who can explain something of the history and protocol; a small tip or gift is customary. Photography permissions vary and it is worth asking before pointing a camera anywhere inside the gates.

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A story
The Ooni of Ife is considered the spiritual head of the entire Yoruba people — a community of 50 to 80 million spread across Nigeria and the diaspora. When a new Ooni is installed, Yoruba from Lagos, London, and New York travel to Ile-Ife for the coronation ceremonies. The palace sits at the centre of a city that has never entirely stopped being a royal capital.

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