Senegal
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Senegal

Senegal

West African country of Atlantic beaches, mbalax music, Sufi brotherhoods, and Wolof teranga.

Africa > Senegal

Senegal punches well above its weight. It is not a large country — barely the size of Nebraska — but it has some of the most engaging cities in West Africa, a coastline that draws surfers, fishermen, and beach-goers, extraordinary birdlife, and a culture grounded in teranga, the Wolof concept of hospitality that visitors reliably describe as one of the warmest they have encountered anywhere.

The country sits at the westernmost tip of the African continent, and this position has shaped it. Dakar was the capital of French West Africa, and the French influence is visible in the architecture, the baguettes, and the strong café culture. But Senegal is emphatically not a French imitation. Wolof is the real lingua franca, mbalax music fills the streets, and the Mouride Islamic brotherhood commands more loyalty here than any government.

Most visitors start in Dakar, which is chaotic and rewarding in equal measure. From there the options spread out: north to colonial Saint Louis and the vast bird sanctuary at Djoudj; south along the Petite Côte to the beach resort of Saly and the shell island of Joal-Fadiouth; further south to the lush, distinct world of Casamance; and east to the wildlife of Niokolo-Koba and the remote Bassari country.

Senegal is one of the most politically stable countries in West Africa. It has never experienced a military coup and transitions of power have been peaceful. That said, the Casamance region in the far south had a long-running low-level separatist conflict; while largely quiet now, it is worth checking current conditions before venturing deep into the bush there.

Destinations

  • Dakar — the capital: markets, museums, mbalax, and the sea
  • Ile de Gorée — a small island off Dakar, central to the history of the slave trade
  • Saint Louis — former colonial capital on the Senegal River, UNESCO listed
  • Saly — the main beach resort, south of Dakar
  • Cap Skirring — the best beaches in Senegal, in the heart of Casamance
  • Basse Casamance — the lush southern region, forests and mangroves
  • Touba — holy city of the Mourides, dominated by one of the largest mosques in Africa
  • Ziguinchor — the main town of Casamance, a relaxed base for the region
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Senegal