A Soviet-era MiG-17 fighter jet sits on a raised plinth in the centre of Hargeisa, flanked by murals depicting scenes from the 1988 civil war bombardment in which much of the city was destroyed. The memorial is the most recognised landmark in Somaliland and the most direct statement of how the country understands its own existence — not as part of a failed state but as a place that survived a specific, documented atrocity and rebuilt itself.
The jet is mounted high enough to be visible from the surrounding streets, and the murals at the base are worth close examination. They show civilians fleeing, soldiers, and the aftermath of the bombing. The site is in the centre of town and easy to reach on foot. There is no entry fee. Visit it first — it provides the context for everything else in the city.