The coast is the reason to come: walks along empty beaches, surfing at Coffee Bay and Port St Johns, horseback riding across the dunes, and boat trips into the mangroves at Umngazana. Inland, the rolling Xhosa country is best explored with a local guide — the communities are welcoming, but the roads and footpaths are not signposted. Do not miss the walk to Hole in the Wall from Coffee Bay, or a few quiet hours at Mazeppa Bay.