Lobamba is worth visiting year-round as a stop on the Ezulwini Valley drive, but two ceremonies transform it into something far more significant.
Umhlanga Reed Dance takes place over eight days in late August or early September (the exact dates shift each year). Tens of thousands of unmarried women travel to Ludzidzini Royal Village on the edge of Lobamba to cut reeds and present them to the queen mother. On the final day, the women dance in regiments before the royal family. The ceremony is open to visitors and is genuinely spectacular in scale — nothing else in southern Africa quite resembles it. Respectful dress is expected; photography rules apply and should be followed carefully.
Incwala is the more sacred of the two, held in December or January around the time of the summer solstice. It is a first-fruits ceremony that renews the king's power for the coming year. Parts of it are open to outsiders, but the inner rites are closed. Even witnessing the public portions — the processions, the costumes, the singing — is extraordinary. Check with the Swazi Tourism Authority for the exact dates each year, as they are not announced far in advance.
Outside the ceremony seasons, the valley is pleasant between April and September when days are dry and warm. July and August can be cold at night. The summer months (November to February) are hot and humid, with afternoon thunderstorms that clear quickly.