Koutammakou — the castle villages of the north
The tata somba compounds of the Batammariba people in the north are the most striking architecture in West Africa. These two-storied mud-brick towers, with their thatched conical rooftops and interior granaries, have been built this way for centuries. The Koutammakou landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Reaching it requires a day's travel from Lomé, but very few visitors make the effort — which means you may have the villages nearly to yourself.
The Lomé fetish market
The Akodessewa Fetish Market in Lomé is the largest vodun market in the world. Stalls sell dried animal parts, skulls, herbs, and ritual objects used by healers across West Africa. It is not a tourist performance — this is a working market, and the atmosphere is unlike anything else on the continent. Go with curiosity and without squeamishness.
Kpalimé and the highlands
Kpalimé sits in the green hills two hours north of Lomé, in the heart of Togo's coffee and cocoa country. The surrounding landscape of waterfalls, forest, and butterflies (the area is famous for its butterfly diversity) makes it the best base for hiking in the country. Mount Agou, Togo's highest peak, is an easy day hike from here.
Lake Togo and Togoville
The long coastal lagoon of Lake Togo is a quiet, beautiful place — and Togoville, on its northern bank, carries a remarkable history. Slaves taken from here to Haiti brought vodun to the Caribbean; the connection is still visible in the town's religious life. Getting there by pirogue from Lomé is half the pleasure.
Lomé's beach and nightlife
Lomé is one of the more liveable West African capitals. The beach runs directly behind the main hotel strip, the grand marché is a serious shopping experience, and the city's bars and music venues have real character. After a week in the bush, Lomé feels like a reward.
Kara and the northern hills
Kara is the gateway to the north — a pleasant town with good guesthouses and the best restaurants outside Lomé. From here you can hike Mont Kaybe, explore the Tamberma valley, and attend the Evala wrestling festival in July if your timing is right.