Cut directly into the rock face of the ridge, the cave dwellings of Chenini are among the most intact examples of traditional Berber troglodyte architecture in Tunisia. The interiors stay cool in summer and warm in winter — a natural insulation that made this form of building the rational choice for millennia in a region where shade is precious and firewood scarce.
The caves are arrayed along the hillside in rough tiers, connected by stone paths and stepped lanes worn smooth by centuries of use. Many have been modernised — you will see painted doors, electricity cables, and the occasional satellite dish alongside the rough stone walls. A handful of families still live here year-round, even as most of their neighbours have moved to New Chenini in the valley. If someone is at home and the door is open, they may invite you in for tea; this is a custom and a kindness, not a commercial transaction. Wander quietly, stay on the marked paths, and ask before photographing anyone's home.