Sfax rewards a full day of walking without any tourist crowds to contend with. The Medina is the centre of attention — a walled old city of extraordinary vitality, still functioning as a genuine commercial and residential area rather than a sanitised museum. Enter through one of the historic gates, such as Bab Diwan (the sea gate) or Bab Charki (the eastern gate), and lose yourself in the network of souks.
Within the medina, the Great Mosque of Sfax is the most important religious building — its minaret dates to the 9th century and is one of the earliest surviving Islamic structures in the Maghreb. The Dar Jellouli Museum, housed in a fine 17th-century mansion, displays Sfax's regional arts and folk traditions including embroidery, costume, jewellery, and woodwork. The Kasbah of Sfax occupies the southwestern corner of the old walls and contains the Sfax Archaeological Museum, which holds Roman mosaics and antiquities from the surrounding region.
The Souk El Haddadine (blacksmiths' market) is one of the most authentic craft souks in Tunisia — the sound of hammering metal fills the narrow lanes. The working harbour is worth an afternoon visit, especially in the late afternoon when the fishing fleet returns.