Eating out in BSB is cheap, flavorful, and best done at street level. The city does not have much of a fine dining scene, but what it lacks in white tablecloths it makes up for in honest, well-spiced food at prices that seem almost absurdly low.
Night Markets and Food Stalls
The Gadong Night Market (Pasar Pelbagai Barangan Gadong) is where you should eat. Open from around 4pm every evening, it is a huge covered market where dozens of vendors sell grilled chicken, satay, nasi katok, grilled fish, kuih (local sweets), and fresh fruit juices. Most dishes cost BND1-3. The market is thoroughly local -- you will rarely see another tourist here.
The Tamu Kianggeh open-air market along the Kianggeh River is good for breakfast and lunch, with stalls selling nasi lemak, kuih, and fresh produce.
Restaurants
Aminah Arif Restaurant is the most well-known spot for ambuyat, Brunei's national dish. The sticky sago paste comes with an array of dipping sauces and side dishes. It is an essential experience even if the ambuyat itself is an acquired taste. The restaurant also serves excellent beef rendang and other Malay dishes.
Thien Thien Restaurant on Jalan Residency is a local favorite for chicken rice -- simple, perfectly executed, and popular enough that it fills up at lunch.
Kaizen Sushi and several other Japanese restaurants in the Gadong area reflect the Japanese influence in Brunei's food scene. For Indian food, Seri Indah and Ideal Curry House serve good roti prata and curries.
International fast food chains (McDonald's, KFC, Pizza Hut) are present in the Gadong shopping area and various malls, though you would be missing out if you chose them over the local options.