Angkor
Nothing quite prepares you for the scale and ambition of Angkor. The temple complex near Siem Reap spans hundreds of square kilometers and contains over a hundred temples built across four centuries. Angkor Wat itself — the largest religious building ever constructed — is a masterpiece of proportion and decoration. But the faces of the Bayon, staring out from every tower, and the strangled trees of Ta Prohm are equally unforgettable. Arrive at Angkor Wat before dawn on a clear morning and watch the towers emerge from the dark over the reflection pool. Whatever else you do in Cambodia, allow at least two full days here.
Phnom Penh's Contrasts
Phnom Penh rewards a few days. The Silver Pagoda and Royal Palace set a high bar, and the National Museum holds the finest collection of Khmer art outside Angkor. Then brace yourself for Tuol Sleng and Choeung Ek — the genocide museum and Killing Fields are deeply disturbing but essential. The city's riverfront is pleasant in the evenings, with cafes and bars looking out over the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap.
Irrawaddy Dolphins at Kratie
One of Cambodia's least-expected pleasures: the Irrawaddy dolphin, a rare freshwater cetacean found in a stretch of the Mekong near Kratie. A short moto ride from town and a boat onto the river gets you close to these slow-moving, snub-nosed animals. The town itself is a relaxed stopover with good food and an unhurried pace — a world away from the Siem Reap tourist machine.
Kep and Kampot Pepper
The ruined beach resort of Kep is one of Cambodia's strangest and most atmospheric places. Villas built for the pre-war Cambodian elite lie gutted and overgrown, slowly being reclaimed by vegetation. The beach is modest but the crab — cooked with locally grown Kampot pepper, considered by many chefs to be among the world's finest — is extraordinary. The nearby town of Kampot is a relaxed base with good restaurants and a growing traveler scene.
The Mekong Northeast
Most travelers skip the northeast, which is a mistake. The road from Kratie north to Stung Treng follows the Mekong through landscapes of islands, rapids, and fishing communities. Ratanakiri province, further north, has crater lakes, waterfalls, and hill tribe communities where life runs on rhythms completely different from the Khmer lowlands. It's not easy travel — roads are rough and infrastructure is thin — but that's rather the point.
Water Festival in Phnom Penh
If you can arrange to be in Phnom Penh for the Water Festival (Bon Om Touk, October or November), do it. A million people descend on the riverfront for three days of boat racing, street food, and communal celebration. The races themselves — hundreds of long boats with 50-plus paddlers, crowds roaring from the banks — are one of the great spectacles in Southeast Asia.