Zhangzhou rewards visitors who do not arrive expecting Xiamen. The old city has temple complexes and tile-roofed lanes that see far less tourist traffic than the more polished destinations of Fujian. The real draws are in the surrounding counties: Nanjing's Tulou earth buildings, the coastal fortresses of Zhangpu, and the rock formations of Dongshan Peninsula. A car is essential for the outlying areas; public transport gets you to Nanjing Tulou but is slow and infrequent for the rest.