Yangguan Pass

The southern of the two great Han-dynasty passes, about 70 km south-west of Dunhuang and rather less impressive than Yumen Pass — what remains is a lonely brick beacon tower on a low hill — but with a freshly built museum and reconstructed gate complex that explain the Silk Road customs system and the military garrison that policed it. The wider site includes a wine bar where you can drink a cup with a recital of the famous Wang Wei poem, which sounds gimmicky but is actually fun.

Often combined with Yumen Pass in a single day, although the two are on different roads and the round-trip from Dunhuang is long. Less atmospheric than Yumen, more accessible and more informative — better if you want context, worse if you want desert silence.

things to do sight
A story
Wang Wei's farewell poem to a friend posted west — 'I urge you, drink one more cup of wine — west of Yangguan there are no old friends' — is one of the best-known lines in classical Chinese literature, and it was written here. Every Chinese tourist who comes to Yangguan can recite it from memory.

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