Braised Goose (Lu Wei)

Braised goose (卤鹅) is the prestige dish of Teochew cooking: whole geese slow-cooked in a master stock of soy sauce, sugar, five-spice, and aromatics, then sliced and served at room temperature with a dipping sauce of vinegar and garlic. A good lu wei operation keeps its braising stock running for years, continually refreshed, and the depth of flavour in an old stock is impossible to replicate. This is food that improves with a restaurant's age.

The best versions in Chaozhou are at the specialists around the old city market, where whole geese hang in the window and the stock has been running for decades. Order a mixed plate of goose slices with offal (liver, gizzard, intestine — all braised in the same pot), served with plain rice and a small bowl of lu wei braising broth for dipping. The cold version, served at room temperature, is considered superior to reheated.

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