Liuzhou's food identity is built around luosifen — river snail rice noodles — and the city takes enormous pride in the fact that this pungent, sour-spicy dish originated here. The correct way to eat it is at a street counter at breakfast, in a bowl containing rice noodles, pickled bamboo shoots, dried tofu skin, peanuts, and a broth made from river snails that has been simmering for hours. It smells extraordinary before it tastes extraordinary.