The terraces cycle through four visually distinct phases that are worth understanding before you book. Late May (flooded fields): the paddies are filled with water for planting and every terrace becomes a mirror — the most photographed configuration and the one that gives the terraces their otherworldly quality. June to August (young rice, deep green): the terraces are a solid green, lush but without the reflections; this is also peak tourist season. Late September to October (harvest, golden): the rice ripens to gold and the terraces glow — the second great photographic period. November to early April (stubble or winter): stripped fields after harvest, or, occasionally, snow — stark and beautiful, almost no tourists.
The worst time to come for the scenery is high summer (July and August) — the terraces are green but monotonous, the weather is hot and humid, and the day-tripper crowds are at their worst. The flooded-field period in late May and early June is the peak for photography but also gets heavy traffic from long weekend visitors. A weekday in the second or third week of May is the optimal combination of good light and manageable crowds.