Chou doufu — stinky tofu — is as central to Changsha's identity as any temple or museum. The city ferments tofu in a brine of fermented milk, vegetables, and various other ingredients for anywhere from a few days to several weeks, then fries the result in hot oil. The frying creates a sealed, crispy exterior while the interior turns soft and intensely flavoured. The smell of the fermenting tofu and the frying oil together is one of the more challenging olfactory experiences in Chinese street food, but the taste is one of the more rewarding.
The best stalls are scattered across Pozi Street, Taiping Street, and the area around Wuyi Square. There is no single best address — quality varies by vendor, and locals have strong and divergent opinions about whose version is superior. The correct approach is to buy a small order (¥5–8), try it, and form your own view. Served with chilli oil and sometimes a light broth, it is one of the more honest street food experiences in China: nothing is hidden, the process is visible, and the result is exactly what it is.