Ganzhou's rice noodles (赣州米粉) are served in a peppery, slightly oily broth made from pork bones and dried chilies, with a flavour closer to Hunan cooking than the lighter Guangdong style to the south. The noodles are thick and round, made fresh each morning and cooked to order. Standard toppings are braised pork slices, pickled mustard greens, and fried garlic; more elaborate versions add beef tendon or river fish balls.
The best places to eat them are the small stalls in the morning market streets of the old town, where the noodles are made on the premises and the broth has been simmering since before dawn. Breakfast here for ¥8-12 is one of the most satisfying ways to start a day's exploration.