Linyi is a city that earns repeat visitors by exceeding very low expectations. Most travelers stop here for the Wang Xizhi connection — the calligrapher is treated as a local hero — but the Yinqueshan Bamboo Slips Museum is one of the most extraordinary archaeological collections in China, the Tianyu Natural History Museum claims the world's largest single-roof dinosaur hall, and the Yimeng Mountains to the north offer genuine hill walking through landscapes that see few foreign visitors.