Foguang Temple

An 857 CE wooden hall, one of the two oldest surviving timber buildings in China

Foguang Temple sits in a side valley twenty kilometres south of Taihuai, well outside the main concentration of Wutaishan monasteries and accordingly much quieter. Its East Hall, built in 857 CE, is one of the two oldest surviving wooden buildings in China — the other is the slightly older Nanchan Temple, a few hours away in the foothills. The hall is a single-storey timber structure of seven bays, with the deeply overhanging eaves and powerful bracket sets that characterise mature Tang architecture.

Inside, the hall preserves an extraordinary group of original ninth-century clay sculptures — a large central Buddha with attendants — as well as fragments of Tang-period wall painting along the side walls. The lower courtyard contains earlier and later buildings (a Northern Wei stone pagoda, a Jin-period Manjusri hall, Ming and Qing additions), each of architectural interest in its own right. Allow most of a half day for the trip out from Taihuai. The temple is now a UNESCO listing within the Mount Wutai World Heritage Site and is taken seriously by visitors who know what they are looking at.

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A story
Foguang's East Hall was identified as a Tang-period structure in 1937 by the architectural historians Liang Sicheng and Lin Huiyin, working from a Dunhuang cave-painting that showed a temple of the same name. They reached the site on donkey-back, days from the nearest road, and confirmed the date from inscriptions on a roof beam. It was the first Tang wooden building ever scientifically dated, and it transformed Chinese architectural history.