The ruins of Subash Buddhist Temple complex lie about 20 kilometres northeast of Kuqa on the northern bank of the Kuqa River. This was one of the largest Buddhist monastery complexes in Central Asia during the 5th to 7th centuries, when the Kingdom of Kucha was at the height of its power and the northern Silk Road passed through its gates. The pilgrim Xuanzang stopped here in 629 AD and described it in terms that suggest a great institution; archaeological evidence confirms that the complex extended over a considerable area on both banks of the river.
What you see today are earthen ruins — eroded walls, collapsed stupas, the outlines of courtyards — in a dramatic landscape of red and yellow desert cliffs. The ruins are extensive and largely unexcavated, which means they retain a sense of genuine discovery that more developed archaeological sites sometimes lack. Walking among the mounds in the late afternoon, with the river glinting below and the cliffs catching the light, is a powerful experience.
Getting there requires a taxi from Kuqa; allow a half day for the round trip with time to explore. There is minimal signage and the terrain is uneven — good footwear is useful.