The Major Stone Forest, or Greater Stone Forest, is the core of the Shilin scenic area and where most visitors spend the bulk of their time. Paved paths wind through a dense maze of grey limestone columns ranging from a few metres to over 30 metres tall, separated by narrow passages carpeted with ferns and moss. The circuit around the lake at the centre and up to the main viewpoint takes about two hours at a comfortable pace.
The formation is most impressive when seen from above — several viewpoints offer perspectives that reveal the density of the columns and the scale of the area. At ground level, the passages between the pillars create a sense of navigating a city of stone: corners turn to reveal new vistas, single columns stand like isolated towers above the general mass. The early morning light is the best for photography and for the atmosphere — the same formations that feel crowded and slightly theme-park by 11am acquire genuine drama in the mist and quiet of dawn.