Meze in Germasogia

The suburb of Germasogia, just east of central Limassol, is where locals go for traditional Cypriot meze — that long, leisurely meal of perhaps twenty small dishes that represents the island's cuisine at its most social. The dozen or so traditional restaurants here serve meze in the old style: you order meze for the table (usually a minimum of two people), pay a fixed price per person, and then let the kitchen deliver what it likes in whatever order it chooses.

A meze might include tahini dip, taramosalata, grilled halloumi, loukanika (pork sausages with coriander), afelia (pork cooked in wine and coriander seed), fresh salads, bread, and grilled meats, followed by fruit and sweet things. It takes two hours if you do it properly. Prices are generally reasonable by European standards, and the atmosphere in the better tavernas is precisely what you would hope for: loud, friendly, and unhurried.

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