Phugtal Monastery is one of the most spectacular sights in all of Ladakh — a gompa built directly into and around a large natural cave, clinging to the side of a sheer gorge far in the southern part of the Zanskar valley. Approaching it from a distance, the monastery looks almost impossible: a cluster of white-painted buildings emerging from the cliff face, with the dark mouth of the cave visible at the centre. Around 70 monks of the Gelugpa school live here.
Getting to Phugtal requires either a long jeep journey on rough roads and then a 2-hour walk, or several days of trekking from Padum via the Lungnak Valley. The effort is entirely worthwhile. The cave contains the monastery's most sacred spaces, including ancient frescoes and a freshwater spring. The walk up from the valley floor, across a wooden bridge and along a narrow ledge, is an experience in itself. If you are trekking in the region, the route through Phugtal to Purne and then to the Shingo La and Lahaul is one of the classic crossings.