Rabdentse Ruins

Ruins of Sikkim's second royal capital, abandoned in 1814

The second capital of the Kingdom of Sikkim from 1670 to 1814, Rabdentse sits on a ridge above Pemayangtse monastery, its stone chortens and palace walls slowly being reclaimed by forest. The site has an eerie, atmospheric quality quite unlike the working monasteries nearby.

The walk from the Pemayangtse monastery complex takes about 20 minutes through dense woodland. At the site itself, three intact chortens stand against a backdrop of mountains, and the outlines of the royal palace and assembly halls are visible in the overgrown stonework. An information board explains the history. Come early in the morning when mist still hangs in the forest and the light is good for photographs.

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Rabdentse was abandoned in 1814 when the Gurkha invasion forced the Sikkimese royal family to flee north to Tumlong. The ruins were so overgrown by jungle that they were only rediscovered and excavated in the 20th century. The site is now a World Heritage candidate and the walk through the forest to reach it feels genuinely archaeological.