October to early December is the best time for mountain views — the monsoon is over, the air is washed clean and Kanchenjunga is sharp and clear in the early mornings. March and April bring rhododendron blooms along the trekking trails.
Avoid the monsoon (June to September) — trails become slippery, leeches are abundant, and the mountains disappear behind cloud for weeks at a time. Winter (January and February) is cold but clear and the town is very quiet.