Konar Kadai is the most famous of the Simmakkal-area street stalls that come alive after 8pm. The signature dish is "kothu parotta" — shredded flatbread tossed on a hot griddle with egg, mutton and a fiery dark salna gravy — and the rhythmic clang of the chefs' metal spatulas hitting the griddle is part of the experience.
Eat in the open air at the plastic-stool tables; the kothu parotta is the standout but the mutton chukka and Madurai-style biryani are both worth ordering. Stay open till midnight or so; cash only.