Haridwar is one of the seven holiest cities in Hinduism, and you will feel it the moment you arrive. The Ganges emerges from the Himalayan foothills here, and the entire city is organized around the river — bathing ghats, temple bells, chanting, and the smell of incense are constant. Every evening at Har Ki Pauri ghat, priests perform the Ganga Aarti ceremony, lowering fire to the water as thousands of small oil lamps float downstream. It is one of the most atmospheric rituals you will witness anywhere in India.
The city is a gateway to the Char Dham pilgrimage circuit and to Rishikesh, 25 kilometres upstream. Haridwar itself is compact and best explored on foot along the ghats. The main bazaars sell religious paraphernalia, ayurvedic medicines, and sweets. As a holy city, Haridwar is strictly vegetarian — you will not find meat or alcohol anywhere — but the street food is excellent, particularly the kachoris and aloo puri served at stalls near the railway station.
Above the city, cable cars ascend to two hilltop temples: Mansa Devi Temple and Chandi Devi Temple, both offering panoramic views over the Ganges and the Shivalik foothills. South of the city, the quiet neighbourhood of Kankhal holds the ancient Daksheshwar Mahadev Temple. Wildlife enthusiasts can join a jeep safari into Rajaji National Park, which begins virtually at the city's edge and holds a significant wild elephant population.
Every twelve years, Haridwar hosts the Kumbh Mela, one of the largest human gatherings on earth, when millions of pilgrims come to bathe in the Ganges. Even outside of Kumbh years, the city draws a steady stream of devotees and is always lively.