The lanes of Chandi Chowk near the main bazaar fill up with food stalls by mid-morning and remain busy until late evening. This is the place to try kachori — flaky fried pastry stuffed with spiced lentils — along with samosas, chaat, and the local favourite, choley bhature. Everything is vegetarian and usually very fresh.
The evening is the best time to wander, when the smell of frying food mixes with incense and the lanes are lit by stall lamps. Street food here is uniformly cheap; ten rupees will buy a satisfying snack at most stalls. Look for the stalls with the longest queues of locals — that is always the best indicator of quality.