Denpasar is the best place on Bali to eat like the Balinese actually eat, rather than like the Balinese expect tourists to eat. The warungs (small family restaurants) around the Pasar Badung and along Jalan Sulawesi serve the real thing: babi guling (spit-roasted suckling pig, the island's ceremonial food), nasi campur (rice with an array of small dishes), sate lilit (minced fish sate grilled on lemongrass skewers), and lawar (chopped vegetables with coconut and spices, sometimes containing raw blood — the traditional version is startling to first-timers).
The most famous babi guling in Denpasar is at Ibu Oka on Jalan Sutomo, which opens in the morning and sells out by early afternoon — arrive by 11am. The market at Pasar Kumbasari across the road from Pasar Badung has a food court on the upper floors serving cheap Balinese staples from stalls that fill up at lunchtime. The streets around the university on Jalan Sudirman have a concentration of budget warungs catering to students, open through the afternoon and evening.
Coffee culture is strong in Denpasar — several specialty coffee shops have opened in the Renon and Sanglah neighbourhoods, serving local Balinese single-origin beans alongside the usual espresso menu.