Lovina Beach

Lovina Beach is the long stretch of dark volcanic sand that gives the area its name. Unlike the white-sand beaches of southern Bali, this is a working coast — fishing boats are pulled up on the shore in the mornings, and the water is calm enough to swim in even in the wet season because the reef sits offshore.

The beach is split by the dolphin statue in Kalibukbuk, the largest of the seven villages strung along the coast. The eastern stretch is quieter, with little more than a couple of warungs between the road and the sea. Sunrise here is the postcard image of Lovina, and the morning dolphin boats launch from the sand directly in front of the village.

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The water here is so flat at dawn that the first dolphin you spot looks like it has been drawn on the surface. The black sand is volcanic, the colour of wet basalt, and stays that way for kilometres.

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