Mataram is the capital of Lombok, though in practice it is four towns that have merged into one sprawling conurbation: Ampenan, Mataram, Cakranegara (Cakra) and Sweta. Each has its own character.
Ampenan, the old port district, is the most atmospheric part of the conurbation, with its faded colonial shophouses and quiet waterfront. The West Nusa Tenggara State Museum in Ampenan gives a good overview of Lombok's cultures — Sasak, Balinese Hindu, and Islamic — with a strong textile collection. Cakranegara (Cakra) is the liveliest area and the best base for eating and shopping. It is also home to the Mayura Water Palace and Pura Meru, Lombok's largest Hindu temple, which face each other across a main road. Mataram proper is the administrative centre, and Sweta (Mandalika Terminal) is the island's main transport hub for buses and bemos.