The Arfak Mountains rise steeply to the south of Manokwari, their cloud forest slopes a world apart from the tropical coast only an hour's drive away. The twin Anggi Lakes — Anggi Giji and Anggi Gita — sit at nearly 1,900 metres and are among the most atmospheric destinations in the Bird's Head Peninsula. The air is cool, the landscape open, and the birding extraordinary.
Getting to the Anggi Lakes requires a sturdy vehicle and a full day from Manokwari. The road climbs through increasingly wild forest and small highland villages. A guide and overnight stay in one of the villages is the best approach — some guesthouses exist, but facilities are basic. The reward is access to birds of paradise, tree kangaroos, and mountain views that few travellers ever see.