Irian Jaya is the Indonesian half of New Guinea, the second-largest island on earth. Since 2001 it has been officially called Papua, though the old name persists among travellers. This is one of the most remote and least-visited regions in Southeast Asia, and that is precisely why it draws the people who come here.
The interior is a wall of mountains and dense tropical forest, cut by rivers that serve as the only highways for many communities. Getting from place to place is slow, expensive, and often dependent on small aircraft with unpredictable schedules. Accept this and you will have the trip of a lifetime.
Most travellers head for the Baliem Valley, home of the Dani people, via Jayapura or Biak. The valley town of Wamena has basic modern facilities, but even here you will see men wearing koteka (penis gourds) and women in grass skirts. From Wamena, local guides lead multi-day treks through the valley to remote villages.
The coast offers a different experience. Sorong is the gateway to Raja Ampat, widely considered the best diving on the planet. Manokwari, the capital of West Papua province, sits on a beautiful bay surrounded by forested hills.
Note that travel permits (surat jalan) are required for many areas outside the main towns. Arrange these in Jayapura before heading inland.
