Kerkhof Peutjoet is the old Dutch military cemetery near the city centre, with thousands of graves from the long and brutal Aceh War. It is one of the largest Dutch military cemeteries outside the Netherlands, but it is not only Dutch names you see here; soldiers recruited from other parts of the archipelago are buried here too.
The cemetery is quiet, shaded, and more moving than many visitors expect. It gives the colonial history of Aceh a human scale: rows of names, ages, and dates from a war that Aceh resisted fiercely for decades. The Tsunami Museum is close by, making the two an unusually sober pairing.