Waingapu is the largest town in Sumba and the practical hub for exploring the east. It is not a destination in itself — the waterfront is modest, the colonial-era buildings unremarkable — but it is the most functional base on the island. The airport connects to Bali daily, accommodation ranges from basic guesthouses to decent hotels, and the market is the best place on Sumba to compare ikat cloth from multiple villages in a single morning.
The old harbour area (Pelabuhan Lama) in the north of town is the more characterful half: Chinese-owned shops, a fish market, and the ferry terminal where PELNI boats call. The newer southern district has the better restaurants and the main market (Pasar Inpres).
The town's real value is as a base. From here, traditional villages — Pau, Prailiu, Rende, and Melolo — are all reachable as day trips, and the eastern plains where Sandalwood horses graze freely are visible from the road south.