Mashhad's restaurant scene divides sharply along pilgrim lines: many places near the shrine serve a narrow menu of inexpensive chelo kebab and rice dishes aimed at high-volume daily turnover. For a better and more varied meal, head out into the residential neighbourhoods west of the centre, or up to the resort villages of Torghabeh and Shandiz for the famous Khorasani shishlik.
Local specialities to try: shishlik (huge lamb chops), sholeh mashhadi (a thick lentil-and-meat stew), the dessert sohan (saffron brittle), and the local sweet pistachio nougat.