The golden dome of the Imam Ali Shrine is the heart of Najaf and the symbol of the city. On a clear day the gold can be seen from 40 km out across the desert. For Shia Muslims this is one of the holiest places on earth, and many wish to be buried within sight of it — which is how Wadi al-Salaam, the great cemetery next door, grew to its present size.
The shrine complex covers an enormous courtyard surrounded by an arcade of iwans. The dome itself is plated with thousands of gilded tiles, and the two minarets are sheathed in gold as well. Inside, the silver-grilled tomb chamber is mobbed with pilgrims pressing forward to touch the zarih. Non-Muslims are not permitted inside the inner sanctum and may not be allowed onto the courtyard at all; dress modestly and follow the directions of the shrine guards.